The Home Improvement Consumer Protection Act, which was adopted by Pennsylvania's General Assembly last October, will take effect July 1, 2009. The law requires that all contractors who perform $5,000 or more in home improvements annually register with the Attorney General's Office. Included are those who perform home improvements, installations or replacements of a variety of services including doors and windows, solar energy systems, as well as many others. Registration requires that contractors maintain minimum insurance coverage and use contracts containing important information about home projects, including the start date and completion date, a description of work being performed and consumers' rights under the law. The registration is valid for two years and costs $50.
According to Pennsylvania attorney general Tom Corbett, the law is intended to protect consumers from unscrupulous contractors, provide new protection for consumers who hire home improvement contractors and authorize criminal penalties for home improvement fraud.
Door and window companies in Pennsylvania say this new regulation is good news for the state's home improvement market.
"We are thrilled that the Attorney General's Office is requiring contractors/dealers to register with the state if they want to do business here after July 1," said Alan Levin, president and chief executive office, of Northeast Building Products located in Philadelphia. "We are encouraged to know that people wishing to do home improvement work and or repair in our state, are now required to provide information, such as proper insurance, and their drivers licenses. This will help to reduce the chances of fraud that has become Pennsylvania's number one complaint with the Attorney General's Office, surpassing automobile fraud. This we are not proud of. Anything that gets done to help maintain the credibility of our industry is a positive one."
Tyson Schwartz, vice president of sales and marketing for Gorell Windows and Doors in Indiana, Pa., has a similar view.
"This new act, which is meant to protect homeowners from unscrupulous contractors does put the professional and honest remodeling dealers/contractors on a much better playing field. Remodelers will have to have a more open book policy with homeowners in regard to insurance, any past legal issues, any past licensing issues, etc.," says Schwartz. "The Pennsylvania remodeling dealers will quickly adjust to the act, and homeowners will have the benefit of knowing the remodeling industry will be a much more professional and open book industry."
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Monday, August 31, 2009
Monday, August 17, 2009
Take advantage of energy-saving tax credits for your home
Natick, Mass. - Home improvement season is here and Better Business Bureau is offering advice on how to take advantage of tax credits being offered by the Federal government while increasing home energy efficiency and helping the environment at the same time.
The American Recovery and Reinvestment Act of 2009 included several new tax and expanded credits that homeowners can take advantage of while increasing the energy efficiency of their home, and according to Remodeling Magazine's 2008-2009 Cost vs. Value report, energy efficient replacement projects are some of the best bets for recouping money at resale. Some qualifying improvements include routine work that every homeowner must undertake now and then, such as installing a new roof. However, other qualifying improvements are more involved including installing a wind or solar energy system.
“Increasing the energy efficiency of your home is one way to cut down on monthly bills, and now is a great time to make some modest home improvements to take advantage of federal tax credits and boost resale value,” said Paula Fleming, BBB spokesperson. “Before making any energy saving purchases, do your homework because not all products qualify for a tax credit and not every product with an ENERGY STAR seal will apply.”
To qualify for tax credits, improvements must typically be made on the owner’s primary residence. Homeowners should keep in mind that just because a product has an ENERGY STAR seal—the Environmental Protection Agency’s standard for energy efficient consumer products—it doesn’t mean the purchase qualifies for the tax credit. For the following home improvements, a household can take a tax credit for 30 percent of the improvement cost up to $1,500 total for all improvements made.
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The American Recovery and Reinvestment Act of 2009 included several new tax and expanded credits that homeowners can take advantage of while increasing the energy efficiency of their home, and according to Remodeling Magazine's 2008-2009 Cost vs. Value report, energy efficient replacement projects are some of the best bets for recouping money at resale. Some qualifying improvements include routine work that every homeowner must undertake now and then, such as installing a new roof. However, other qualifying improvements are more involved including installing a wind or solar energy system.
“Increasing the energy efficiency of your home is one way to cut down on monthly bills, and now is a great time to make some modest home improvements to take advantage of federal tax credits and boost resale value,” said Paula Fleming, BBB spokesperson. “Before making any energy saving purchases, do your homework because not all products qualify for a tax credit and not every product with an ENERGY STAR seal will apply.”
To qualify for tax credits, improvements must typically be made on the owner’s primary residence. Homeowners should keep in mind that just because a product has an ENERGY STAR seal—the Environmental Protection Agency’s standard for energy efficient consumer products—it doesn’t mean the purchase qualifies for the tax credit. For the following home improvements, a household can take a tax credit for 30 percent of the improvement cost up to $1,500 total for all improvements made.
Source
Monday, August 3, 2009
Home improvement Q&A: Getting patio furniture spruced up for summer
Q: We bought patio chairs several years ago. We leave them out of doors year-round, and the material has become discolored. Is there a way to clean them? No holes or any other problems.
A: Let's talk about cleaning more than just your chairs, if we may, since summer has arrived, and it's time to play outdoors.
To clean woven furniture, you'll need to get into and around those intricate weaves. And that requires a variety of brushes - a new, rather than used, toothbrush (stiffer bristles); a small paintbrush with bristles cut down by half, to make them stiffer but not sharper; and a bristle brush with medium bristles.
Some experts recommend sharpening a dowel to pick out bits of dirt and debris, but the best tools are already sharpened - try the wooden skewers used to make shish kebab.
After you have gotten the gunk and grime out of the weaves, vacuum a wicker piece thoroughly. Then, wash it using minimal amounts of a solution that is two tablespoons of ammonia to two gallons of water. Clean in sections from top to bottom, then dry the wicker quickly to prevent it from warping. Lay the piece on a clean canvas drop cloth; tip it so the tighter weaves are on top and the looser on the bottom, so the moisture runs down and away quickly. Keep the weaves straight, so they don't shrink.
If mere cleaning isn't enough, sand and repaint (following the manufacturer's suggestions). Depending on the piece, spray paint may give better coverage in less time.
For regular aluminum chairs, grab a plastic scrub brush and dishwashing detergent at full strength and then scrub, scrub, scrub. Rinse thoroughly, then let dry.
For coated-aluminum pieces, experts also recommend full-strength dishwashing detergent, but using a sponge instead. Rinse completely, dry with a soft cloth, and then rub on car wax to polish, avoiding the fabric. If you get wax on the fabric, clean it quickly. Buff the metal after it dries.
Take a look at your old plastic furniture. Is it worth keeping another year?
If the chairs cost $2 each 10 years ago, you can find sturdier and nicer ones for about the same price today. But if you opt to keep them, wash the pieces with three tablespoons of powdered laundry detergent (or oxygenated bleach such as OxiClean) mixed in a gallon of warm water. A scrub brush will work, but avoid stiff bristle brushes, which can scratch or gouge the plastic surface. Let the solution soak in for a few minutes. Rinse thoroughly, then dry.
Check the label for the manufacturer's suggestions. If cushions or seat webbing are washable, use warm, soapy water or a foam cleaner. Apply with a sponge, rinse and dry quickly.
Wrought-iron furniture tends to rust, which is why it should always be covered if left outside in winter. If corrosion has already begun, use a wire brush on the metal lightly, to remove the rust but not the paint. Naval jelly, available at home centers and hardware stores, also can dissolve rust; some products become a primer that lets you apply protective paint in 24 hours. Rust stains can be removed with fine steel wool dipped in kerosene. Wear protective gloves and safety glasses and apply in the open, away from fire. To get into the joints, disassemble the furniture.
Got a mildewed patio umbrella? Open it and lay it on its side, then clean with oxygenated bleach in warm water - though you should check the manufacturer's care suggestions (chlorine bleach will fade acrylics). Use a soft-bristle brush on one section at a time; rinse with clean water and let dry.
Source
A: Let's talk about cleaning more than just your chairs, if we may, since summer has arrived, and it's time to play outdoors.
To clean woven furniture, you'll need to get into and around those intricate weaves. And that requires a variety of brushes - a new, rather than used, toothbrush (stiffer bristles); a small paintbrush with bristles cut down by half, to make them stiffer but not sharper; and a bristle brush with medium bristles.
Some experts recommend sharpening a dowel to pick out bits of dirt and debris, but the best tools are already sharpened - try the wooden skewers used to make shish kebab.
After you have gotten the gunk and grime out of the weaves, vacuum a wicker piece thoroughly. Then, wash it using minimal amounts of a solution that is two tablespoons of ammonia to two gallons of water. Clean in sections from top to bottom, then dry the wicker quickly to prevent it from warping. Lay the piece on a clean canvas drop cloth; tip it so the tighter weaves are on top and the looser on the bottom, so the moisture runs down and away quickly. Keep the weaves straight, so they don't shrink.
If mere cleaning isn't enough, sand and repaint (following the manufacturer's suggestions). Depending on the piece, spray paint may give better coverage in less time.
For regular aluminum chairs, grab a plastic scrub brush and dishwashing detergent at full strength and then scrub, scrub, scrub. Rinse thoroughly, then let dry.
For coated-aluminum pieces, experts also recommend full-strength dishwashing detergent, but using a sponge instead. Rinse completely, dry with a soft cloth, and then rub on car wax to polish, avoiding the fabric. If you get wax on the fabric, clean it quickly. Buff the metal after it dries.
Take a look at your old plastic furniture. Is it worth keeping another year?
If the chairs cost $2 each 10 years ago, you can find sturdier and nicer ones for about the same price today. But if you opt to keep them, wash the pieces with three tablespoons of powdered laundry detergent (or oxygenated bleach such as OxiClean) mixed in a gallon of warm water. A scrub brush will work, but avoid stiff bristle brushes, which can scratch or gouge the plastic surface. Let the solution soak in for a few minutes. Rinse thoroughly, then dry.
Check the label for the manufacturer's suggestions. If cushions or seat webbing are washable, use warm, soapy water or a foam cleaner. Apply with a sponge, rinse and dry quickly.
Wrought-iron furniture tends to rust, which is why it should always be covered if left outside in winter. If corrosion has already begun, use a wire brush on the metal lightly, to remove the rust but not the paint. Naval jelly, available at home centers and hardware stores, also can dissolve rust; some products become a primer that lets you apply protective paint in 24 hours. Rust stains can be removed with fine steel wool dipped in kerosene. Wear protective gloves and safety glasses and apply in the open, away from fire. To get into the joints, disassemble the furniture.
Got a mildewed patio umbrella? Open it and lay it on its side, then clean with oxygenated bleach in warm water - though you should check the manufacturer's care suggestions (chlorine bleach will fade acrylics). Use a soft-bristle brush on one section at a time; rinse with clean water and let dry.
Source
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